Z E N I T U D E
Blue Water Dreaming
Ile des Pins - White Sand Beaches, Turquoise Waters and Lots of Green Pines
At anchor in Kuto - 13 to 18 September 2013
We left Bonne Anse at sunrise for the 45 miles to Kuto in Ile des Pins. Everybody we know had been lucky with the fishing in that crossing and there was no error, we (Oscar) got lucky as well. A nice mahi-mahi to guarantee dinner on board for the next 5 days at least.
No wonder everybody that sails to New Caledonia makes its way to Ile des Pins. What a beautiful island, just around the corner from the south tip of the Grand Terre.
We arrived in Kuto in the early afternoon. Compared to all other places we've been this season, we found a crowded anchorage, but it is a big wide bay and there was no problem to find a good place to drop the anchor.
Baie de Kuto
Among the many cruising boats in Kuto we met again with Retour. They mention that with settled weather it is possible to take the boat to Vao, the main village, there is also a nice market for fresh produce that opens Saturdays and Wednesdays. We think about it but at the end decide it is another activity left for next time.
The decision is not because of lack of settled weather as we are having a magnificent week, but rather we are enjoying mother nature at it's best, the green vegetation with hundreds of pines, the very white smooth sand beaches and the amazing turquoise clear waters.
We take a daytrip and go sailing around Ilot Moro. There is a boat at anchor but we can't find the break in the reef to get in. The weather is so settled and still there is no water breaking over the reef.
Ilot Moro - Google Earth picture
Way In ....
The cruising guide has some explanations but no waypoints. Too late afterwards we realize we could have used the Google Earth pictures and chart overlay to enter.
With frustration we head to Ilot Brosse to find a fantastic day anchorage with a stunning beach.
We did the track to Nga which is easy in an interesting forest but managed to loose the track before getting to the apparently breathtaking views. Anyway, it was a good walking exercise.
The bay next to Kuto is Kanumera. It is annother amazing bay with the famous rock that is 'forbidden to climb'. The rock seems to be falling in pieces that stay at the bottom in the clear waters of the bay, the trees manage to grow on the rock while their roots corrode the rock creating a beautiful effect.
Our last day was a bit of a disappointment as the big P&O cruise ship deposited thousands of tourists in this tiny place and our plan to rent a car and go around the island was crashed. There was no possible transport if you didn't have a P&O cruiser card and no cars left for renting. Oh well, something to do next time.
Our season is coming to an end and we leave Ile des Pins at sunrise on another georgeus day towards Koare where we plan to make a stop before continuing towards Noumea.
The trip is great with fantastic fair winds, following seas and blue skies. It can't get better than that. This time there was no fish which was probably a blessing because we have been eating fish for 5 straight days already. Oscar was grateful as well as he was not ready to clean another fish and wash all the mess afterwards.
A perfect sunset in Kuto, the green flash just about to happen
From Koare another day trip took us to Laregnere and next day from there back to Port Moselle marina to start the preparations for the way back to Australia and the end of 2013 sailing season.
Heading Back to Port Moselle - 18 to 20 September 2013