Z E N I T U D E
Blue Water Dreaming
The Grenadines - Enjoying the quiet life with Veronica and Andrew
Bequia - Admiralty Bay - 26 to 27 May 2007
Bequia (pronounced Beck-wee) with only 18 sq. km of land, is the largest of The Grenadines. It is the northernmost island in the chain, just 10 miles south of St. Vincent, offering quiet lagoons, reefs, and long stretches of nearly deserted beaches.
After an overnight trip from St. Lucia we arrive to Admiralty Bay. With nice ENE 10 to 15 knots wind we had a good sailing night arriving just as the sun was rising at 6:00AM.
Admiralty Bay is a huge well protected bay with Bequia’s town, Port Elizabeth, at its head. Small hotels, bars, restaurants and shops spread from town along the beach.
Bequia Tender is a service that delivers water and collect garbage from the boats at anchor in the bay. We happily fill Zenitude’s water tanks as there is no need to leave the anchorage. Great service!
This is a charming place with brightly colored roof tops and green hills that surround the harbor.
In the afternoon we go around to Friendship Bay, a fishermen's little village with a beautiful beach. Nearby is Petit Nevis where we stop and Oscar goes for a dive. He couldn't get dinner for us and we go back to Admiralty Bay. Later at night we go ashore and enjoy a pizza at one of the many restaurants along the beach.
Mayreau - Saltwhistle Bay - 27 to 28 May 2007
From Bequia it took us about 4 hours to sail the 27 miles to Saltwhistle Bay with good 15 to 20 knots wind. This lovely hour-glass shaped beach is actually formed by 2 strands, one on a very calm bay and the other on the open windward side of this sleepy island that is Mayreau.
As we were approaching the island we could see a kite surf on the skies, obviously on the windward side of the beach.
This is not a very big bay but it was pretty empty and we found a good spot to anchor.
Andrew is very happy indeed to finally find the right beach. After bringing the kite surfing gear all the way from Australia, he was by now getting really frustrated but it looks like we've finally found the place.
At anchor in beautiful Saltwhistle Bay
Perfect conditions for Andrew
Resting after a hard day at the beach
We stayed a couple of days, met again with Beduina and Cavalo Marino and enjoyed magical sunsets with the sun setting on one side and the full moom rising on the other side of this amazing place.
Not long after our arrival, a local guy came to the boat to tell us about a barbecue at the beach being organized by him that night. He said it is very popular with the people at anchor. We thought it may be a good idea but I’m glad we went to check the place out before committing. We found the place looked terrible and very dirty and gave up on the idea. Later on we heard the food is pretty bad and the price goes up when you try to pay.
The sun sets and the full moon rises in Saltwhistle Bay
Union Island - Clifton Bay - 28 May 2007
We sailed to Clifton for the day and anchored in the busy bay. This is one of the few places around this area with fuel, water, internet and provisions. It is also a port of entry for the Grenadines and we intend to do our check out here in a couple of days before leaving for St. Vincent.
We go ashore to buy bread, sodas, fruits, vegies and get cash. Incidentally, the only ATM machine shuts down for ‘siesta’ right after Oscar insert his card. The security guy is surprised at our ignorance; ‘everybody knows ATM machine shuts down 12:00PM to 2:00PM’ he says. While we shop for veggies a crazy guy keeps shouting in the street, but we get assured he is not dangerous ‘everybody knows him’.
Happily we get back on board, spend a quiet night and leave next morning to visit the Tobago Cays.
Tobago Cays - 29 May 2007
Chattam Bay - 29 May to 1 June 2007
The Tobago Cays are a group of small deserted islands protected from the sea by Horseshoe Reef. It is a national park, with abundant marine life, there are turtles, rays and colourful fishes. Soon after anchoring, we get a visit from the park ranges that come to collect the fees. Local boat vendors hang out in the Cays selling everything from ice, bread, jewellery and lobsters. We happily by fresh bread for lunch and say a big NO to lobster. It is the breeding season and they should not be catching them.
The water is inviting and everybody jumps to go snorkelling off Zenitude. We find turtles feeding from the grass in the sandy sea bottom. We also take the dinghy to nearby beaches and to snorkel in Horseshoe Reef, the day is perfect and so is the place.
The kind of water we like for snorkelling
Horseshoe Reef on the background
In the afternoon the wind picks up. We decide to look for a more protected area to spend the night and leave towards Chathan Bay.
We sail towards the western end of Union Island to reach Chatham Bay by rounding Rapid Point. This area is known for extreme gusts of wind that touch down after passing over the island, but today is very calm and as the sun is setting we motor sail trying to get there before nightfall.
The sun is rapidly disappearing but a full moon is rising illuminating our way into the broad bay. The bay is quite deep and we finally anchor in a protected area close to shore.
It is said that Chatham Bay is the anchorage that regular visitors to The Grenadines do not want you to know about. There is a good chance that you will have this place all to yourself, or share it with one or two other boats. There is a lovely beach of golden sand that is literally deserted. Solitude, that is why people come here. It is not different today, we share the big bay with just three other boats.
The sun stes while we are underway
A full moon rises while we anchor
We wake up in the morning to confirm that is not much here except a great beach that we have to ourselves. Snorkelling is fantastic at both ends of the beach with thousands of brightly coloured tropical fish.
There is no doubt this is a great anchorage just to relax on the boat, which we do until it's time to get ready for the final leg towards St. Vincent where our young crew will catch a plane to go back home.
We leave early afternoon and stop again in Admiralty Bay, Bequia to spend the night and have a farewell dinner at the Mexican restaurant. After a good overnight rest we continue sailing towards St Vincent.